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Dining Review: Capa

At the Four Seasons’ Capa, everything is elevated, from the rooftop perch to the exquisite plates coming out of the kitchen…

Nestled into the Four Seasons Orlando is where you’ll find Capa, a contemporary- cool Spanish steakhouse perched on the 17th floor rooftop. The menu, created by Chef Tim Dacey, features modern tapas, housecured meats, and fruits de mer that take staples from the Basque region in northwest Spain and southwest France.

The name Capa refers to the red cape donned by a bullfighter and this theme is interwoven throughout the design of the restaurant starting with a gorgeous fixture above the center of the dining room which resembles the matador’s flowing cape. It really stands out once the sun sets and the dim lighting shimmers. The high ceilings and the open kitchen lend a bit of Disney whimsy to the Basque design and décor that really set the tone of this Spanish steakhouse.

At the bar, which extends onto a spacious terrace, a shimmering mural made of antique Spanish coins adds a hint of glam. Terrace diners enjoy a serene view of the abundant woodlands, the lakeside setting with natural wetlands, the Tranquilo Golf Club greens and views of all four of the Walt Disney World Resort parks. Best of all, diners will be able to enjoy views of the Happily Ever After Nighttime Spectacular at Magic Kingdom Park, as well as the IllumiNations: Reflections of Earth show at Epcot if you are dining at 9 p.m.

Our server came by with the wine and drink menu—both digitally displayed on iPads. I took a recommendation from our server and ordered the “Buena Vista” ($16), a combination of jalapeñoinfused Barrel Select Patron Reposado Tequila and citrus finished with salt air and espelette. It was more like salt foam with a landing strip of chili pepper salt through the middle. It was very inventive and refreshing. My wife enjoyed a glass of the Malbec from Argentina ($14) and found it very smooth with hints of fruit.

We decided to start out with some tapas, namely the Pan con Tamate y Manchego ($9), which was amazing. The thick crispy artisan bread topped with a concasse of tomato and a sliver of manchego was light and exquisite. Next to come out of the kitchen were the Huevos ($5)—deviled eggs that were on point with a subtle hint of white truffle to give the yolk even more richness. And, we also opted for the Croquettes ($9) which resembled a small sized egg that was coated and deep fried. Once cut open, the Manchego cheese and bits of diced ham came flowing out like lava. The last small plate we ordered was the Cocas ($13), a wagyu beef and caramelized onion flatbread with a goat cheese spread covering the base. I loved the bold flavors working together to make a pungent pop with every bite.

Our entrée choices were well diversified. My wife chose the 16-ounce Berkshire Pork Chop ($43) with a mandarin orange glaze. The pork was cooked beautifully and presented half off the bone. Charred corn polenta with cilantro ($11) was a worthy side dish, pairing nicely with the pork. The charred bits of corn garnished on top added a bit of texture that polenta usually needs.

For my entrée, I knew what I was ordering the minute I spotted it on the menu—the 40-day dry aged Bone-in Ribeye ($69). The meat arrived to table glistening and was prepared wonderfully to a precise medium temperature. The house-made steak sauce with tamarind paste added a tangy sweetness to the dish. Sautéed broccoli and Spanish peppers ($11) was my side of choice and I loved the preserved lemon finish to add further depth to the plate.

Not to be overlooked is the Chicken Breast ($32) ordered by my daughter. I was taken aback and remain surprised at how tantalizing the whole dish was. The pan-seared chicken with the truffle potato, white asparagus and mushrooms was such a deliciously earthy treat. I have never reviewed a chicken entrée before, and certainly have never ordered one, but I would recommend this to anyone as much as I would the steak.

Little ones have their own children’s menu, including the staple of mac and cheese, and additional options including roasted chicken breast and a petite filet mignon. My son got the petite filet cooked to a perfect medium and a side of the charred corn polenta. He cleared his plate. The filet did not have much adult seasoning or sauce, which made it extremely kid friendly.

When it was time for dessert, we were unsure of what to order—we wanted it all. My daughter’s nut allergy limited her to the Fuego ($15), a chocolate lava cake with banana ice cream. There were no complaints from her side of the table. My wife ordered the Churros de Madrid ($13) which consisted of three churros fried to a golden brown and then dusted with cinnamon sugar, accompanied by a caramel and chocolate sauce. They were perfect. My encore to the evening was the Valor Chocolate ($13). It came out in a glass cylinder layered with chocolate mousse, coffee ice cream, toffee crunch and meringue. There were many sweet textures with every bite. I loved this dessert, especially since I got to enjoy it almost exclusively.

Capa was everything I expected and more. The beautiful, rich décor and amazing sunset on the rooftop was sensational. The food was up to Walt’s vision and it was enticing for a completely family dining experience. In fact, there were more families with children eating during our Sunday visit than couples; although it definitely fits the bill for a couple’s romantic evening out as well. Overall, it was a great place to bring the kids to expand their culinary boundaries while living the high life.

Capa
10100 Dream Tree Blvd. | Lake Buena Vista
(407) 313-7777

This article originally appeared in Orlando Family Magazine’s November 2017 issue.

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