Orlando Family dining critic Michael Lit takes stock of The Chef’s Table.

Built in 1926, Winter Garden’s historic Edgewater Hotel operates as a bed and breakfast with 16 uniquely sized and decorated rooms. Of more interest to foodies is the award-winning restaurant located inside: The Chef’s Table at the Edgewater, which might be this small town’s best-kept secret.

Founded by Kevin and Laurie Tarter, who previously worked for Disney’s Victoria & Albert’s and Arnaud’s in New Orleans, the Chef’s Table has made just about everyone’s list, from local publications to Zagat’s Top Restaurants in America. And though Chef David Lampman’s menus shift with fresh ingredients, they never disappoint. Despite several years of good buzz, though, the restaurant’s small size and location about 15 miles east of downtown Orlando has allowed it to keep some of its clandestine buzz.

Once my father Harvey and I were seated and took in the quaint setting, we definitely felt that old-fashioned, small-room, rowhome vibe, and wood rafters and white walls accented the look. There were only six tables in our dining room: three two-tops and three four-tops. An adjoining dining room had one large table, and our server Colin told us that they were expecting a large party later that evening. The atmosphere was intimate, but it wasn’t hushed, romantic or stuffy, possessing a certain quaint old-world charm that makes you want to head back time and again.

The Chef’s Table offers a three-course prix fixe menu ($55), and an optional wine pairing ($25) is available. We were greeted with impeccable service by staff members who were passionate about the amazing food and wine they serve here. I loved how our server wore a chef jacket as his uniform, which immediately made him seem very knowledgeable. I asked many questions and sought recommendations. Colin was able to explain how and why each dish he recommended was something I must taste.

Neither my father nor I wanted the wine pairing with our meal, so we asked Colin about some of their specialty drinks. I had their take on the Manhattan, in which they infuse the ingredients into the whisky instead of muddling it. Delicious. My father saw what he wanted to drink right away: the South Florida, which consisted of Don Q Silver rum, Brinley Gold Shipwreck coconut rum, grilled pineapple juice and coffee-soaked shaved coconut rim. The Chef’s Table takes as much thought in preparing their cocktails as they do their menu.

My first course selection was a pan-seared foie gras on toasted brioche with a maple reduction and blueberry lavender gastrique. It was exquisitely prepared and balanced so delicately. My father had the shrimp and corn chowder. The fresh shrimp and local corn made for a winning summertime soup.

My main course (as recommended by Colin) was the chargrilled Berkshire pork chop with Anson Mills polenta, candied collard greens and bacon apple butter, topped with a nice 4-ounce piece of pork belly. The combination of the polenta, pork and candied collards in one bite was by far the most flavorful pork chop entrée I have eaten anywhere.

My father ordered the lamb rack with a mint chimichurri sauce. The lamb came out a beautiful medium-rare, and the chimichurri sauce matched perfectly with the lamb. The marbled potatoes could have been more prevalent on the plate, but the flavor was definitely spot on.

My dessert choice was the saltine cracker-crusted dark chocolate torte with chocolate ganache, candied peanuts and an amazing buttered- popcorn ice cream, which I paired with a delicious Quinta De La Rosa port wine. The dessert had so many interesting components, and the way Colin explained the process of extracting the popcorn flavor for the ice cream threw my mind in a tailspin. I had to try it, and I’m glad I did. It was an exquisite dessert to end an amazing meal.

Dad got the Bananas Foster bread pudding. You really can’t go wrong with caramel bananas and bread pudding. It was rich, and with his French-pressed coffee, my dad was in heaven—and in Winter Garden of all places.

Remarkably for such an unforgettable meal, the price point will keep the average adult wanting to come back to try Chef Kevin’s next prix fixe menu. Kudos all around.

An Orlando resident for more than 25 years, Michael Lit is the executive chef for Central Florida Regional Hospital and also has extensive experience in both casual and fine dining.

The Chef’s Table at the Edgewater
Winter Garden | (407) 230-4837