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Dining Review: Todd English’s bluezoo

Living in a tourist town can have its shortcomings, but having a plethora of celebrity chef restaurants is not one of them. Take, for example, Todd English’s bluezoo at Walt Disney World’s Swan and Dolphin Resort, to which my wife Toni and I recently—and happily—made the 45-minute trek to enjoy a weekend dinner.

Once in the restaurant, we were seated immediately and took a moment to enjoy the décor. The modern, underwater-themed dining room with sleek bar and partial open kitchen is gorgeous and sets a relaxed mood.

The seasonal menu offers innovative farm-to-table options with a focus on fresh seafood. Our meal started with house-made, sinfully delicious ciabatta and focaccia, as well as fennel butter. The warm focaccia roll with grilled onions on top was our favorite and warranted asking for more. Bravo to pastry chef Laurent Branlard for the bread selection.

While enjoying the bread and waiting for our first course, I sipped a classic barrel-aged Manhattan made with Four Roses Small Batch bourbon ($13), and my wife enjoyed a glass of Four Graces pinot noir ($15). The wine list has a great selection, and the specialty cocktail menu was creative and included options for every taste.

Crispy Asian Pork Ribs ($18) and Low Country Jumbo Shrimp ($16) were the appetizers that piqued our interest. The pork ribs were gorgeous, consisting of a large portion that was beautifully presented. The pork was fall-off-the-bone tender, yet it retained a great crispness from the cornstarch in which it was fried. Plus, the ribs were tossed in an Asian sauce with a great balance of sweet and salty. It really set that dish into a class of its own.

My wife’s grilled shrimp were large and perfectly seasoned. She did add some salt and pepper to the white-cheddar grits, but once they were mixed with the shrimp, cherry tomatoes, okra and bacon butter, it was the perfect marriage of flavors. Delicious!

Our entrées arrived in grand fashion, being presented by two servers in unison. My wife’s Miso Glazed Mero ($42) was piping hot, and the Mero, aka Hawaiian sea bass, was cooked to perfection. This Asian-inspired dish had all the components of a winner. The shiitake ginger rice paired perfectly with the Mero, and the sticky soy glaze tied it all together. I would recommend ordering a vegetable dish as a side, though, as we thought one would’ve nicely rounded out the fish and rice.

I had the Simply Fish ($35) entrée, which on this night featured Monchung. Being unfamiliar with that catch, I asked the server about it and was told it resembled tuna. I paired it with the butter crab sauce, which made it extremely rich. The fish was moderately sweet, and I felt it resembled black cod more than tuna, but with a butter crab sauce on top, who can really say? More importantly, the mélange of vegetables on the side was a beautiful pairing. Kudos to Executive Chef Andrew Bernier and his team.

We were full yet left just enough room for coffee ($3.50) and dessert. How can you say no to dessert when it’s made by two-time world-champion pastry chef Branlard? I can definitely see why Branlard won twice, considering the two masterpieces we ordered. My wife went with the Warm Chocolate Banana Molten Cake ($13.50), and I decided on the Chocorange ($13.50).

The molten cake looked like a piece of art work. It was a decadent, chocolate-cream pudding with a warm chocolate sauce, and caramelized bananas and banana ice cream were served on the side. The Chocorange was even more sensational. It came to the table with a white chocolate sphere in the center of the plate. When the server poured the hot orange-vanilla sauce over the top, the white chocolate melted, uncovering the chocolate fondant cake with chocolate-orange cream and chocolate sorbet that was within. The server had advised us to take a video so we could remember the experience and capture the transformation. We’re glad we did. It was imaginative and eaten in record time.

The table service was first rate throughout. Beverages were refilled swiftly, we received spot-on recommendations from the waiter, and the table was quickly cleared as we finished each dish. Bravo to the two floor managers that discreetly checked on every table to ensure that both service and food quality were on point. They were both a pleasure to chat with and added to the overall dining experience.

Upon leaving the restaurant, we meandered through the hotel’s Galleria Sottil to look at works of art before taking a leisurely stroll around the hotel grounds and enjoying Disney’s fireworks off in the distance. Overall, it was a wonderful culinary experience and a perfect evening adventure with someone special.

An Orlando resident for more than 25 years, Michael Lit is the executive chef for Central Florida Regional Hospital and also has extensive experience in both casual and fine dining.

Todd English’s bluezoo
Walt Disney World Swan and Dolphin Resort
(407) 934-1111